Tips

Saturday, February 25, 2012

How to Enter BIOS or CMOS Setup

There are various methods for entering the BIOS or CMOS setup depending on the make, model and age of your computer. I will try and explain some of the most popular methods.

Most modern computers will require you to press one of the following keys during start up:
  • F1
  • F2
  • DEL
  • ESC
  • F10
You should press the key when you see a message such as press to enter BIOS or try tapping the appropriate key slowly during startup.

On some modern computers, pressing and holding down a key during boot will cause a stuck key error. This may give you the option to enter BIOS setup

Older computers may require one of the following key sequences during startup:
  • CTRL + ALT + ESC
  • CTRL + ALT + INS
  • CTRL + ALT + ENTER
  • CTRL + ALT + S
  • PAGE UP KEY
  • PAGE DOWN KEY
If the above suggestions do not work please check the access key lists below.

List of BIOS access keys for major computer manufacturers.

Acer – Aspire, Power, Veriton, Extensa, Ferrari, TravelMate, Altos
  • Press Del or F2 immediately after powering on.
  • The BIOS on the Acer Altos 600 server uses the Ctrl+Alt+Esc key and the F1 key for advanced options.
  • Older Acer computers may use also use the F1 or Ctrl+Alt+Esc keys to access BIOS.
Compaq – Presario, Prolinea, Deskpro, Systempro, Portable
  • Press F10 while the cursor in the top right corner of the screen is blinking.
  • Older Compaq computers may use the F1, F2, F10, or Del key.
Dell – XPS, Dimension, Inspiron, Latitude. OptiPlex, Precision, Vostro
  • Press F2 when the Dell logo appears. Press every few seconds until the message Entering Setup appears.
  • Older Dell desktops and laptops may instead use Ctrl+Alt+Enter or Del.
  • Older Dell laptops may use Fn+Esc or Fn+F1.
eMachines – eMonster, eTower, eOne, S-Series, T-Series
  • Press Tab or Del while the eMachine logo displays on screen.
  • Other eMachine computers may use F2.
Fujitsu – LifeBook, Esprimo, Amilo, Tablet, DeskPower
  • Press F2 once the Fujitsu logo appears.
Gateway – DX, FX, One, GM, GT, GX, Profile, Astro
  • Press the F1 key repeatedly after restarting the computer.
  • Some older Gateway computers use F2.
Hewlett-Packard (HP) – Pavilion, TouchSmart, Vectra, OmniBook, Tablet
  • Press the F1 key after restarting the computer.
  • HP Tablet PCs may use F10 or F12.
  • Other HP computers may use the F2 or Esc keys.
IBM - PC, XT, AT
  • Press F1 immediately after powering on the computer.
  • Older IBM computers (including some laptops) may use the F2 key.
Lenovo (formerly IBM) – ThinkPad, IdeaPad, 3000 Series, ThinkCentre, ThinkStation
  • Press F1 or F2 after powering on the computer.
  • Older Lenovo products use Ctrl+Alt+F3, Ctrl+Alt+Ins, or Fn+F1.
Micron (MPC Computers) – ClientPro, TransPort
  • Press F1, F2 or Del immediately after powering on the PC.
NEC - PowerMate, Versa, W-Series
  • Press F2.
Packard Bell - 8900 Series, 9000 Series, Pulsar, Platinum, EasyNote, imedia, iextreme
  • Press F1, F2, or Del.
Sharp – Notebook Laptops, Actius UltraLite
  • Press F2 after the computer starts.
  • Some very old Sharp PCs require a Setup Diagnostics Disk.
Shuttle – Glamor G-Series, D’vo, Prima P2-Series, Workstation, X Mini XPC, Surveillance
  • Press F2 or Del on startup.
Sony – VAIO, PCG-Series, VGN-Series
  • Press F1, F2 or F3 after turning on the computer.
Toshiba – Portégé, Satellite, Tecra
  • Press F1 or Esc after powering on.
List of BIOS access keys for major motherboard manufacturers.

abit – ab9, an7, an8, av8, aw9d, be6, bh6, ic7, in9, ip35, kn8, kn9, etc.
  • Press Del while the PRESS DEL TO ENTER SETUP message is displayed.
ASRock – 4coredual, 775dual, 939dual, k7s41gx, p4v88, k7vm3, etc.
  • Press F2 right after the computer starts up.
ASUS – p5b, a7v600, a7v8x, a8n, a8v, k8v, m2n, p5k, p5n, etc.
  • Press Del right after starting the computer. A few ASUS motherboards use Ins instead.
BFG – 680i etc.
  • Press Del when the enter setup message briefly displays at the bottom of the screen after powering on the computer.
BIOSTAR – 6100, 550, 7050, 965pt, k8m800, p4m80, ta690g, tf7050, etc.
  • Press the Del key while the full screen logo is showing on screen, immediately after starting the computer.
DFI – LANParty Ultra, Expert, Infinity 975x, NF3, NF4, cfx3200, p965, rs482, etc.
  • Press the Del key when the Press DEL to enter setup message appears, immediately after the memory test.
ECS Elitegroup – k7s5a, k7vta3, 741gx, 755-a2, 945p, c51gm, gf7100pvt, p4m800, etc.
  • Press either the Del or F1 key.
EVGA - 790i, 780i, 750i, 680i, 650i, e-7150/630i, e-7100/630i, 590, etc.
  • Press Del immediately after powering on the computer.
Foxconn – c51xem2aa, 6150bk8mc, 6150bk8ma, c51gu01, etc.
  • Press Del.
GIGABYTE – ds3, p35, 965p, dq6, ds3r, k8ns, etc.
  • Press Del during POST (Power on Self Test), right after the computer is turned on.
Intel - d101ggc, d815eea, d845, d850gb, d865glc, d875pbz, d945gccr, d946gtp, d975xbx, etc.
  • Press F2 during the initial boot process.
JetWay - jm26gt3, ha04, j7f3e, hi03, ji31gm3, jp901dmp, 775gt1-loge, etc.
  • Press Del immediately after powering on.
Mach Speed – Viper, Matrix, pm800, 917gbag, v6dp, s755max, etc.
  • Press Del after the boot process begins.
MSI (Micro-Star) – k8n, k9n, p965, 865pe, 975x, k7n2, k9a2, k8t neo, p7n, p35, x48, x38, etc.
  • Press Del while the Press DEL to enter SETUP message displays on screen after powering on the computer.
PCChips – m810lr, m811, m848a, p23g, p29g, p33g, etc.
  • Press Del or F1.
SAPPHIRE – PURE CrossFire 3200, a9rd580Adv, a9rs480, CrossFireX 770 & 790FX, PURE Element 690V, etc.
  • Press Del after powering on.
Shuttle – “bare bones” and motherboards including ak31, ak32, an35n, sn25p, ai61, sd37p2, sd39p2, etc.
  • Press Del or Ctrl+Alt+Esc at the Press DEL to enter SETUP message that appears right after turning on the computer.
Super Micro – c2sbx, c2sbm, pdsba, pdsm4, pdsmi, p8sc8, p4sbe, etc.
  • Press the Del key at any time during the boot process.
TYAN – Tomcat, Trinity, Thunder, Tiger, Tempest, Tahoe, Tachyon, Transport and Bigby motherboards including K8WE, S1854, S2895, MP S2460, MPX S2466, K8W S2885, S2895, S2507, etc.
  • Press the Del or F4 key.
XFX - nForce 500 Series, 600 Series, 700 Series, etc.
  • Press Del during the boot process, immediately after the computer is turned on.
List of BIOS access keys for major BIOS manufacturers

AMI (American Megatrends) – AMIBIOS, AMI BIOS
  • Press Del when after powering on the computer.
  • Some older motherboards that use AMIBIOS may prompt for the F1 or F2 key instead.
Award Software (now part of Phoenix Technologies) – AwardBIOS, Award BIOS
  • Press the Del key to enter the BIOS Setup Utility on nearly all AwardBIOS powered motherboards.
  • Some older systems using Award’s BIOS software asked for Ctrl+Alt+Esc to enter BIOS.
DTK (Datatech Enterprises) – DTK BIOS
  • Press the Esc key to enter BIOS, right after powering on the PC.
Microid Research – MR BIOS
  • Press F1.
Phoenix Technologies – Phoenix BIOS, Phoenix-Award BIOS
  • Press Del during the POST (Power On Self Test), immediately after the computer starts.
  • Many older Phoenix BIOS systems required Ctrl+Alt+Esc, Ctrl+Alt+Ins, or Ctrl+Alt+S

How to copy files larger than 3 GB to your Flash Drive

Do you remember when the first USB Pen Drives or Flash Disks surfaced? The purpose of creating them was to replace the dying Floppy Disk. I remember my first USB Flash Drive to be 128 MB, so that’s approximately 85 floppy disks; believe me, it was something back then. Today, Flash Drives replace CDs, DVDs and even small hard disks.

The current Flash Drive generation goes from 2 GB up to 256+ GB (it’s hard to find less than 2 GB these days). This guide will help if you have a USB Flash Drive larger than 4 GB

Let’s say you went to the nearest PC shop, bought a 16 GB Flash Drive, you were very excited, opened up Steam to back up your favorite game and put it on the Flash Drive.

Oh no, something is not right! You have a 16 GB USB Drive and are trying to copy a 4 GB file but failing with the error message “no space available in the destination folder”. You go berserk, and you start wondering: “Do I have a fake USB Flash Drive?” Don’t jump to conclusions so fast. There is an explanation to what is happening here.
You see, the majority of Flash Drives come with a FAT32 File System; this means that the destination drive won’t accept a file larger than 3 GB in size, even if you have a 16, 32 or even 64 GB Drive.

To solve your issue, all you have to do is to format your drive to the NTFS File System, that way the drive will hold larger files and transferring data will be much faster. This precedure is the same on Windows XP, Windows Vista and Windows 7.

Let’s find out the difference between NTFS and Fat File System

Figure 1

Now, before following these steps, please backup any files located on your flash drive that you want to keep before you format it.

All files and folders on the flash drive will be deleted in this process.

First, plug in your flash drive. When it appears in Computer right click on it and choose Format.

Figure 2

Now, if you are getting the warning mentioned above “no space available in the destination folder” you should see Fat32 (Default) under File System, as below.

Figure 3

Click on Fat32 (Default) and choose NTFS from the list and leave the allocation size as it is.

Figure 4

After that, you can choose the Volume label; this is the name of your USB Flash Drive and can be set to whatever you want. Keep Quick Format ticked and then click on Start.

A warning will appear; press OK to confirm that you wish to start the format.

Figure 5
So what have we done here?

Easy, you’ve converted your Flash Drive’s File System to NTFS. It will now accept large files and you may notice that file transfers are faster now.

Please note:

The capacity size is very different from the Allocation size. The first is the real size of the USB Flash Drive; in the above pictures, the capacity is 14.7 GB, whereas the commercial size of the USB is 16 GB. This will only show 14.7 because the hardware manufacturers calculate the size based on the SI definition that 1 GB = 1000 MB but Windows will calculate it on the binary definition that 1 GB = 1024 MB.
The Allocation Unit, also called sector, is the smallest logical amount of disk space that can be allocated to hold a file. In Fat32 each sector is not large enough to hold a file size larger than 3 GB, and when converted to NTFS, the operation will be faster because the sectors are bigger.
Changing the allocation Unit needs a format, but remember that the lower the allocation unit size, the less space that is wasted, so take care of the allocation size you are giving to your drive. If you are putting small files on your drive, keep the allocation size small to avoid losing lots of free space. Copying small files to a large Allocation Unit drive will waste free space.
exFAT is a File System found on Flash Drives, that can be used when the NTFS option is not available; exFAT can handle a very large allocation unit, but be aware that exFAT is not widely supported outside Windows or Mac, so if you are using your flash drive with your car’s Radio or on your DVDplayer exFAT won’t usually be supported on these systems.
Pressing Restore Device Defaults will restore the Flash Drive to its factory settings, usually FAT32 and the default allocation size. Don’t be alarmed if you’ve pressed this button; it won’t work until you format the Drive. Pressing close will simply cancel the command.
Formatting the drive with quick format checked will only cause the space occupied by files to be available, but the files still physically exist and can be restored with some Data restoration tools. Unchecking quick format will erase all data and will check for any bad sectors on the drive; that’s why the regular format will take much longer to complete.

Friday, February 17, 2012

Laptop Computer Repair Tutorial Tips

All you need to know about laptop repair.


Laptop computers can be complicated but laptop repair isn't as hard as the guys down the repair shop would have you believe.

We'll show you step by step instructions for replacing components, photos for jobs that are specific to a particular make of machine, guides to help you troubleshoot problems on your notebook, fixes for commonly encountered issues on different makes of machines and piles of good laptop repair info! 

Repair Tips

Guys, don’t undertake laptop computer repair without reading this first. I’ll guide you away from making costly mistakes that could render your laptop computer useless.

First of all have a good understanding of what it is you need to do and what you might need in the way of tools. A big mistake people make is to sit down with a part and their laptop and use whatever they have around to open up the laptop and replace the part.

What you should try and have before you start..

  • 1 x Philips Head Screwdriver type 0
  • 1 x Philips Head Screwdriver type 1
  • Tweezers ( long nose )
  • ESD mat or grounded ESD wrist strap (ElectroStatic Discharge)
  • Needle nose pliers
Also take a look at the environment you are going to do your laptop computer repair in, static electricity can ruin your day and you won’t even know it..

Back up your laptop's hard drive just in case you do something you shouldn’t have. Avoid doing your laptop computer repair in a carpeted room, use the kitchen or garage.

Keep in mind that if you are playing with the LCD the backlight inverter can give you a nasty shock if the unit is powered, switch the laptop off and unplug it, you should also remove the laptop's battery and hard drive.

I understand that most people won’t have any anti-static gear like wrist straps and so on but if you are going to be doing some laptop computer repair on a regular basis, it may be worth while getting some, although the laptop you have may be a cheap one there is no point killing it off and dumping it in the trash.

 Some points to remember when undertaking laptop computer repairs..
  • Don’t disassemble a machine if it doesn’t need it.
  • Use the right tools.
  • Try to do it in a clean environment.
  • Test the machine properly beforehand
  • Keep any parts you remove in a safe place.
  • Keep the screws with the parts they have been taken from.
  • Put the right size screws back into parts when it's time to reassemble it.
  • Observe how connectors work before disconnecting them.
  • Make notes for yourself if you need to as you pull apart the machine.
  • Check all cables and connectors are fastened as you go along.
  • Try not to use screwdrivers to lever or remove plastic parts.
  • If a part won't budge look for hidden screws or a screw you may have missed.
  • TAKE YOUR TIME.
Note: Some laptops have the screw holes marked with screw types and sizes. Some use symbols to indicate screw types. Take notice of what screws come out of where.
The laptop computer repair tips page is subject to many variations for different laptops and it is hard to be very specific. We have put this page together taking best and most common practices in mind.

Do it yourself

Laptop Keyboard Repair

Laptop keyboard repair is one of the more common jobs performed on laptops, it's also one of the easier repairs to carry out providing the following hasn't happened.

A spill of anything but water on a keyboard will 9 times out of 10 leave you in a situation that involves replacing the keyboard all together.

Keyboards are manufactured in such a way that leaves little to no room to clean out messy spills.

Basically any liquid containing sugar (soft drinks, beer, wine, coffee or tea) are bad news...

A couple of laptop keyboard repair do’s and don’ts in the event of a spill..

DON’T panic. Panic makes us do stupid things, think before you react.

DON’T use a hairdryer to dry out a spill...melted keys are hard to type with.

DON’T tilt the machine upside down or on its side (if you do feel the need it's better to tilt it to the side that houses the CDROM as the CDROM area inside the machine has less components on it than the mainboard).

DO switch the machine off immediately and resist switching it back on until you're certain the spill has dried. Survey the damage after you've dried it out. At this point you could remove the keyboard and try the machine using an external keyboard to see if anything else has been affected.

This diagram shows what a basic keyboard looks like, the ribbon cable which connects the keyboard to the motherboard is indicated by the red arrow.
The ribbon cable can also be located on the front edge of the keyboard depending on the age and model of the laptop you have.
Note the keyboard holder (thin strip of plastic) that sits on the top edge of the laptop keyboard needs to be removed to get access to the screws holding the keyboard down.
Most of the current laptop keyboards are like the diagram below.
Traditionally a spill will kill a keyboard or at best at least some function will be lost. I have only ever been successful with a laptop keyboard repair that involved a water spill, anything else normally results in a tragic loss and putting your old faithful keyboard to rest.. RIP.
 
How to replace a laptop keyboard

Keyboard removal is relatively simple, most keyboards are held in place with a couple of screws, and in some models, also a couple of screws that may need to be removed from the base of the unit. A quick call to your local authorized laptop computer repairer should help to determine what screws need to be removed (if they know their stuff).

The keyboard connector is something that needs a little care when unplugging, if you are too heavy handed and damage the connector in any way you may even damage the mainboard also which can cause a world of pain.. be careful.

See below for the most commonly used connector.
In order to release the keyboard ribbon cable ease the connector edge upwards only about 2 or 3 millimetres, the ribbon should now slip out with ease. The refitting of the keyboard once cleaned or replaced is just done in reverse.
 
Broken off some keys??

Whoops, these are a difficult one to fix and once again often end in having to replace the keyboard entirely. Some very small plastic mounting arms hold the keys in place and are often broken, either that or the little clips that the mounting arms click into break. It's handy to have or get a hold of an old keyboard of the same type in order to poach the parts you need.

You may need some tweezers and a steady hand to fix these. The best thing I can suggest is to gently remove one of the other keys to see exactly how the mounting arms sit, once you have an idea of how it should look grab those tweezers and be patient, it may take some time.

We will soon have some detailed photos showing how these are assembled, until then remember to be patient and gentle.

If you seek professional advice regarding your laptop keyboard repair, the repairer will probably try to sell you a new keyboard complete with hefty labour charge to fix this for you. With the tips we have given you here, you can do your own laptop keyboard repair, fit it yourself and pocket the savings.



Backlight and Inverter

Well people, laptop screen repair will be something you will no doubt need info on at some point in your laptop's life... The symptoms are that the laptop display panel will flicker and then appear to switch off, but if you look closely you can still see a very faint image on the panel, almost like peering through the dark, this is because the backlight isn't lit.

Inverter boards have been an issue in a lot of makes and models of laptops – this is a very common fault. The inverter board loses proper connection causing the backlight to flicker or just simply fails altogether.

A little info in what we mean when we say 'Back Light'. Your screen has a fluorescent tube inside it which is just like your normal household tube except for its size, it's about 1/10 of the size. The tube is attached to a small circuit board via a cable, the circuit board acts like the starter in your household variety. This circuit board is called an 'Inverter or FL Inverter', the inverter provides regulated power to the fluorescent tube which lights up the screen.

If the Inverter fails then you appear to have no display, yes and no, the screen is still displaying the image but without light from the tube it only appears ever so faintly.

A lot of repairers will make the assumption that the LCD has failed and tell you about the enormous cost involved in a laptop screen repair to resurrect your beloved laptop, if you're unlucky this may be the case. Some repairers may even tell you it’s the main board because the video card has failed, they'll tell you that your laptop screen repair will involve replacing expensive circuit cards.. rubbish.

One way of verifying this for yourself is to connect an external monitor to your laptop's VGA port and flipping to dual display or external only display, if you get an image then you have narrowed it down to the inverter or the LCD panel.

The Inverter is a small PCB that is generally located in the LCD cover assembly close by the LCD itself. In most cases it can be found either screwed to the case underneath or along side the LCD panel.
You will need to remove the mask assembly which is the plastic outer border around the screen. If you are the type to be a little heavy handed and impatient, then this is not the task for you. Working around an expensive LCD panel is only for people who have the utmost confidence in what they're doing, the average LCD panel makes up 50% of the overall cost of a laptop and in some cases replacement costs are huge. (Be patient and use minimal force)
Be sure to remove all the screws holding the mask in place, normally expect to see approximately 4-6 screws. In some machines there will be only 2, the mask is also fixed in by snapping type clips that make it fit to the rear cover assembly.

Once you’ve taken that off, you'll have exposed the LCD and inverter which will both be connected to the LCD harness or wire loom that connects them both to the main board.
 1. Connects to the rear of the LCD panel.

2. Connects to the Inverter board or FL inverter.

3. Connects to the main board.
Disconnect the inverter from the harness and from the LCD (the inverter will have a cable plugged into both ends of it) now.. here’s the thing. In a lot of cases your laptop screen repair is just a case of cleaning the inverter pins with some contact cleaner and this will fix the issue for a good while.

The reason is that the pins develop a film on them and lose good connection with the plug that is plugged into them, it’s a good idea to clean the harness plug as well.
If you want to achieve a more permanent fix you will need to apply some Glue (Threebond 1530B) to the end that the harness plugs into (plug number 2, see left image), this will prevent the dirt film forming again on the pins over time.

Once this is done the unit can be reassembled and it should be OK. If you have a faulty inverter that needs replacing the cost will vary from place to place, but study our laptop screen repair guide and use the info to save yourself some money.


Laptop Overheating Issues:

Does your laptop shutdown at random? Does it slow down during heavy operations? Do you need to wait 10 min. before you can start it up again? These are all the symptoms of a laptop overheating problem in or around the cooling system.

What needs to be remembered is that a lot of the current laptops on the market today are running specifications that traditionally were reserved for desktops. Some even contain desktop CPU’s and a kick ass cooling system to match. Take a look at the cooling modules in some of the current Toshiba notebooks.

Anyhow, in order for these CPU’s to perform they have to be kept as cool as possible so manufacturers like Toshiba, Compaq/HP and the like struggle with the limited space and power to do this, hence they have had some laptop overheating issues.

If your laptop does show some of the symptoms mentioned before here’s what you can do..

On the under side of a lot of the machines you can gain access to the CPU/cooling module compartment, be warned – when tinkering around near the CPU, electro static discharge may be your worst nightmare - be careful to control ESD. Once you have located where the fan is you will be able to see quite clearly if this is your issue.. take a look below.

1: Heat sink
2: Fan

The heat sink runs off to the right of this picture and sits on the CPU, you can see the copper pipe running to the CPU here (1).

The fan and the heat sink have a small gap in between them, this is where dust will be sucked into and will accumulate.
Dust build up inside a Toshiba Satellite A10

You can use a soft paint brush safely enough here to loosen all the dust and then use a vacuum with a brush attachment to remove it. If you're game you can take the fan out (2 screws to remove) and give it a good clean out. This isn’t always so easy, on other models of notebooks the fan or fans are only accessible by removing the main board, not a job for a novice.
  
Dust build up inside a Toshiba Satellite A10 with the fan removed.
Arrows mark what should be cleaned out before re-assembly.

Once all the dust and lint is removed, re-assemble your machine. This procedure is something that should be done periodically to ensure that your laptop overheating issues will be a thing of the past.


Laptop LCD Repair Disassembly


If you're undertaking some laptop LCD repair, removing and replacing your screen means you are working with a very fragile and very expensive component.

Follow these steps carefully, the machine in the photos here is a Toshiba but the job is quite similar regardless of what brand machine you are working on.
Remove the mask stickers and then the screws from behind the stickers.
Carefully pull away the mask assembly from around the screen.
 Remove the LCD mounting screws behind the stickers and also behind the inverter cable.
 The LCD should now be free from its mountings.
Disconnect the cable from the back of the LCD.
To complete your laptop LCD repair and fit your new screen, just reverse the steps above. 


Remove Laptop HDD

This is a photo guide to assist you to remove and replace your laptop hard drive. In the photos here we are working on a current model Toshiba but the procedure will be similar on most laptops.
Firstly, locate the hard drive bay and remove the cover screw.
Remove the bay cover to reveal the HDD.
 Gently disconnect the hard disk from its connector as shown.
Check to ensure the connector pins haven't been bent, if they have carefully bend them back into line with a small flat bladed screwdriver.

Remove the 4 screws from the harddrive bracket and take out the drive.

  


Laptop Power Plug / Jack Repairing 

It's almost inevitable that you'll need to repair your laptop power plug if you own a Toshiba Satellite A70 unless you've already had the main board replaced in which Toshiba have applied a well overdue modification similar to what you’ll see here.

The DC jacks on these units are weakened over time with general use and become unstable and loose, in some cases detaching themselves from the main board altogether.

In the one we have pictured the plug detached from the board completely and had to be resoldered and modified due to the rear pin connection breaking away from the plug. You can see the red wire which had to be added to replace the broken pin, this won't always have to be done.

Once the plug has had all of its board mounted points resoldered it is advisable to add an epoxy resin around the outer edge of the plug to fix it to the main board, this will minimise movement when the adapter is plugged into it.
Toshiba Satellite A70 with damaged AC plug. PCB view from the top after modification.

The above photo shows the points that need to be resoldered, the 3 points in a row above the red wire (which is our modify) and normally where the red wire is as well.
The red arrows in the above pictures indicate where resin has been added all around the base of the AC plug.

If you need to repair your laptop power plug, this fix will work well in just about any make of machine.

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Component Identification for Beginners

CMOS Battery

OK, I'll start with one of the most common components we usually have users check, the CMOS Battery.

Complimentary Metal Oxide Semiconductor is a chip used to store information the motherboard needs to be able to boot. It is a form of volatile memory and is powered by a battery to hold its information when the computer is shut down.



This battery sits in a socket on the motherboard, and supplies power to the CMOS chip, which holds the Basic Input Output System information. That includes what hard drives are installed, memory settings, serial ports that are enabled and much more
 Jumpers...

Jumpers are a common subject around here, and they are used for a couple of different purposes. Hard drives have jumpers to determine whether a certain drive will be Master or Slave, same for CD ROM drives, and motherboards have jumpers to set bus speeds among other things.

Newer motherboards usually only have one bus speed jumper, it will set 100/133 MHz. Most of the AMD XP xxxx+ series boards use 133MHz. If your XP 1700+, for example, is detected as a 1100 mhz...change the jumper to 133 MHz.

Older boards had groups of jumpers to determine bus speed, multiplier and voltage. This picture came from a board of that type, it shows a single jumper in the background and a jumper block in the foreground. The jumpers are blue plastic, the fittings they match are called headers
 CD ROM showing jumper positions
CPU
 
The metal case your computer is in IS NOT the CPU...the CPU is an IC chip mounted in a socket on the motherboard, containing millions of transistors.

CPU speed is measured in megahertz (MHz). One MHz means one million cycles per second. Gigahertz (GHz) means a thousand megahertz. That means the newer 1GHz plus processors cycle one billion times per second or more. Note the pins missing on two front corners for orientation, forming a diagonal on each corner. These must fit the socket in a specific position to function properly.
AGP/PCI slots

If you work on your own computer you need to know what slots you have, especially if you need to purchase parts -say a video card- and the salesman asks if you need an AGP or PCI card.

The Accelerated Graphics Port is a video specific slot, 2 7/8" long, usually brown in color and it sits almost 2 1/2" from the edge of the motherboard. Peripheral Component Interconnect is white, 3 3/8" long and 1 1/2" from the edge of the board.
 PS/2 is the interface used for mouse and keyboard, replacing the older AT keyboard and serial mouse used on legacy systems. Both are the same size, about 5/16" diameter, and are usually the first plugs on the left as you face the edge of the motherboard that has all the plugs and ports mounted on it.

Mouse is always on top and green, keyboard is on bottom and purple. They are denoted in this picture with the letters M and K scribbled in.
USB
 
Universal Serial Bus is a fairly recently implemented method of connecting peripherals to the computer. The USB ports are fairly simple to recognize, as with most of the other ports and plugs nothing else looks quite like them. You'll find USB used for mice, keyboards, printers, web cams, digital cameras, and other items.

The USB ports are usually adjacent to the PS/2 mouse and keyboard plugs, immediately to the right of them.
 Serial/Paralell Ports
 
 Serial and parallel ports have been around since the beginnings of desktop computing. Serial ports have been used for mouse and external modem connections, and parallel ports are used for older printers and scanners. Newer ones use the USB interface. Often you will see the parallel port listed as LPT, and serial ports called or printed as COM ports.

The LPT port sits on top, and two serial ports (COM 1 and COM 2) below. On many newer motherboards you will see only one COM port, the other position taken by the output plug for the onboard video. these are located immediately to the right of the USB ports on most boards.
When I listed the slots in an earlier post, I neglected to put the ISA slot...

The ISA bus is an older and now almost completely phased out slot on the motherboard. PCI and AGP are both much faster, but I still like to have a couple of ISA slots around for hardware modems and even my trusty old Sound Blaster 16.

ISA is a black slot made in two sections that total 5 3/8" long, 7/8" from the edge of the motherboard, and if you have any at all nowadays it's only one. PCI has taken over the rest of the board.
Standoffs

Standoffs are used to hold the motherboard onto the chassis of the case, and to isolate it against electrical ground. Standoffs are made of metal and plastic, which type is used depends on the mounting options provided in the case. Occasionally cardboard washers must be used with the brass hexagonal type or the silver rectangular clips to stop a ground problem.

Note the ever-present coffee stains on the sticky pad..
 Audio Panel
 
 This should have been posted above, along with the other back panel connectors, and was overlooked.

The audio input/output jacks are sometimes located to the right of the serial and parallel ports, and sometimes are located on a sound card, and will be visible in one of the slots.

Older sound cards had three black 1/8" jacks, (Sometimes 4), and were stamped in the backplate cover with either the name of the jack or a small picture, while newer ones and onboard sound usually have color coded jacks. The yellow jack above is the game port, the audio jacks below are:

Green: Speaker Out (LEFT)
Blue: Line In (Middle)
Red: Microphone in (Right, red or pink)
ATX Power Connector
 
 Earlier computers such as the IBM XT and 286 used AT motherboards, the ATX was designed while the 286 was still around and later became the industry standard form factor.

ATX uses a different power connector, different power switch and usually the mouse, keyboard, LPT and Serial plugs are mounted on the edge of the motherboard which eliminates 3 or 4 short cables used with AT form factor boards.

NOTE: ATX uses a momentary contact switch rather than a standard on/off switch. Hold the power switch down for 4-5 seconds and the computer should shut down. The switch is connected to the motherboard by means of a small pair of wires, usually to a header block on the board which will also have pins to connect IDE LED, Reset switch, Power LED and Internal Speaker.
  AT Power Connector
 
 AT was the earlier form factor, used up until the Pentium II series CPU was released. The motherboards wer the same physical sizes, sometimes would even fit in the same case, but had different power connectors.

The AT form factor used two power plugs from the power supply, labeled P8 and P9, and this power connector on the motherboard. The black wire of each connector MUST be placed in the MIDDLE of the motherboard connector when setting up an AT system.

In this picture the AT keyboard connector is visible in front and to the left of the power connector.
 
 Memory Slots
 
 Motherboards use several types of memory, or RAM. Random Access Memory is used a sa sort of scratch pad for the computer to store recently used data and instructions, so they can be accessed later from temporary memory, instead of the much slower hard drive.

RAM is volatile memory, which means it loses any stored information when the computer is powered down. Earlier boards used 30 pin or 72 pin SIMM memory, newer ones use 168 pin DIMM. Single Inline Memory Module and Dual Inline Memory Module were both used on some motherboards, such as the one pictured here, 168 pin DIMM and DDR memory can be found on some modern motherboards. (Double Data Rate).

In this picture the board is fitted with a pair of 72 pin SIMM memory modules, the 168 pin DIMM slots in front are empty. 72 pin SIMM, if you have the opportunity to use it, MUST be used in matching pairs. DIMM modules can be used singly or in pairs. 30 pin SIMM is similar to 72 pin, but smaller. None will interchange
 Manual CD Eject
 
 AGP Retainer Clip
 
 Newer AGP video cards usually have a slot at the end of the card that fits the clip pictured here. This clip fits in a notch on the end of the lower section of the card, and MUST be pushed aside to remove the card. This clip is a simple black plastic tab, others use a white bell shaped button that must be pulled aside to remove the card.
 Fan Connector
 
 Onboard CPU/Case fan power connector:

Most contemporary motherboards have one or more commonly two power connectors for auxiliary fans. Most are identified by silk screened markings on the motherboard, different manufacturers use different markings. Some will be clearly marked CPU Fan and Aux fan, others FAN 1 and FAN 2.

These are 3 connector plugs and supply 12V DC to the fans needed to cool the CPU and to move air through the case for general cooling. As a general rule the CPU Fan header will be closer to the CPU, although a small few are far enough away I have had to solder on extra wire to make them reach.
 RAM Clips
 
 When RAM is installed it must be seated correctly or the computer will not boot at all. to keep it in place, plastic clips are used which must snap into place when installing new or replacement memory.

This is one of the easiest installations of any of the components, but sometimes can be difficult to reach due to the placement of drive bays inside the case.

To install RAM simply line up the notches in the RAM chip, ensure that it is aligned with the slot ends and push it straight down into the slot until the white end clips snap shut. I prefer to install RAM with the motherboard lying flat on the workbench, but it can be installed after the motherboard is mounted in the case if done with care.
 USB Headers
 
 Onboard USB Headers

Most newer motherboards include extra onboard USB headers, to enable the use of USB outlets on the front of newer cases. These headers are usually not in a standard location, trying to illustrate the various locations is beyond the scope of this thread. Usually the manual will include diagrams pointing out the locations of most headers, jumpers and switches, so check your manual.

The USB headers are either 8 or 10 pin, (usually 8) and have pinouts for two USB outlets. The pinouts for these are also non-standard, again consult your manual for the proper wiring. The red arrows point to the USB 1 and USB 2 designations silk screened onto this motherboard.

The USB cable should be one of two types. Generic cases usually have separate connectors on each of 8 wires, each marked to designate where it goes on the header. The commercial manufacturers such as Dell, Gateway and HP usually use a single plug that conforms to their own wiring diagram, and often will not match the pinouts of a retail motherboard available to consumers.
  Audio Cable:

CD/DVD ROM drives are designed to allow playback of audio CD's. That means the audio signal must be sent to the sound card, so the systenm can amplify it and send it to the speakers.

An Audio cable is used for that purpose. This picture shows the two types of plugs used both at the CD/DVD ROM end and the sound card end. The black plug is the more common one, and is a standard analog audio plug, the white one is a digital audio plug. Which one is used depends on your sound card.

When connecting these to the sound card or motherboard be sure and check the manual or silk screened designations on the card or board, most have a main audio input and an auxiliary. The main is the one normally used, auxiliary is only used when connecting two CD/DVD ROM drives to allow sound capability with both.
 Power Connectors:

These are the power connectors used to supply electrical power to the drives and fans inside the case. The larger one fits a plug on hard drives and CD ROM drives, the smaller one fits floppy drives.

In some cases extra power plugs will be needed, in that case splitters and adapters are available to provide an extra plug, more length or a power plug to fit and reach a case fan.

These power plugs are attached to the ends of wires coming from the power supply, and are keyed so they can only be attached one way, eliminating the possibility of reversing polarity and damaging components. They carry 5 and 12V DC. Check your motherboard manual for specific voltages.
 DIP Switch:
 
 This is a Dual Inline Pin switch used on some motherboards for various settings, usually related to CPU speed, voltage and multiplier. Some boards will have one and some two, each with a specific purpose.
CPU Socket
 
 This is the CPU Socket, where the CPU is mounted for use by the motherboard. This one is a Socket 370, for Intel Pentium III and Celeron processors, the Socket 462 (or Socket A) is for the newer AMD chips. This socket is called a ZIF or Zero Insertion Force socket.

The red arrow points to a corner with the pins laid out diagonally for orientation of the CPU, the other corner (top left) is diagonal too, but not easily visible in the picture. This is to make sure the CPU can only be installed in one direction, so the numerous pins are all in the right places. The pins on the underside of the CPU fit the holes in the socket, which are connected underneath to the circuitry of the motherboard, to carry signals to and from the CPU, RAM and other components.

The lever at left is the lock down. When raised the CPU can be installed or removed, once installed it is lowered to the locked position which slides the lower section and holds the pins tight so the CPU cannot be removed.

The Pentium 4 CPU has a very similar socket, but smaller and with a different orientation method, while the slot style processors mount vertically in a long socket completely different from this one.

The heatsink mounts on top of the CPU and clips onto the tab sticking out on the front edge of this picture, and has another identical tab on the other side. A small metal clip holds the heatsink down.
 Heatsink/Fan
 
 A mandatory compoent for all newer computers faster than about 200MHz or so. The heatsink is usually made of aluminum and the fan mounted on top of it to force air through the fins and help keep the CPU cooler.

Thermal compound should be applied betweeen heatsink and CPU, a very thin layer is usually best. The fan has a set of wires and a connector that plug into the motherboard to give it power. Most of the time your BIOS should have a section with temperature monitors, watch those for a couple of minutes and you can get an idea how hot or cool your CPU runs, at least at an idle. 115-125° F is about average for an idling computer.

The heatsink mounts by different methods, Pentium III and newer AMD chips use a heatsink design like the one shown here, P-4 chips have a larger heatsink that clips onto a plastic retainer mounted on the motherboard.

WARNING: DO NOT turn on your computer without the heatsink and fan mounted and securely fastened to the motherboard. Your CPU can and will get hot enough to destroy it in LESS THAN 15 seconds.